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Tyrrhenian Coast

The coastal stretch between Palermo and Milazzo is packed with dramatic beach and mountain scenery, and appealing coastal towns like Cefalù and Castel di Tusa – but once summer rolls around, it's holiday central, characterised by crowded roads and beaches. Somehow neither this, nor the ever-growing proliferation of concrete buildings marring the coastline, can dissuade locals from coming here for their annual vacation and having a whale of a time.

Few sun-worshippers head inland from these sybaritic summer playgrounds to visit the nearby Madonie and Nebrodi Mountains, but those who do are swiftly seduced. These superb natural landscapes enfold hilltop villages where the lifestyle is traditional, the sense of history palpable and the mountain cuisine exceptional, featuring wild forest mushrooms, suino nero (pork from local black pigs), and ricotta straight from the sheep.

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Eat like a local in Sicily

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